The extra bit at the bottom of each country. That's what I've been doing this week. Sicily was lovely. Warm but rainy which I mostly didn't mind. I stayed in Catania for the most part. I get why it doesn't get it's own listing in the lonely planet, there is not a whole lot there for tourists, but I quite liked the chance to be in a place where people actually live. I spent some time wandering the markets and such. But the reason I chose Catania was because it's fairly central and easy to do day trips to Syracuse and Taormina.
Syracuse was really lovely. I wandered the old town of Ortygia with it's windy alleys and ocean views. Visited their archaeological park with the greek theatre where Aeschylus premiered a bunch of his plays and a man made cavern thing that some tyrant built to have perfect acoustics so he could eavesdrop on the prisoners he put inside. I also found what I think was the tomb of Archimedes. It's the only thing in the area of the map that the tomb of archimedes was marked on but you'd think something like that would have a sign. It's Archimedes. He was a genius and you learn about him and his bath in primary school. Surely that would be worth a sign or 2. So maybe it wasn't really the tomb of Archimedes but I'm going to claim that it was until someone proves me wrong. I also paid a visit to the local archaeological museum which was a pretty decent one. So that was my day in Syracuse. And it wasn't even raining so it was perfect.
My last full day in Sicily I intended to go to Taormina (a pretty hilltop town) but it was completely pouring down that day and I wasn't feeling a hundred percent. Not a lot less than a hundred percent, just enough to make the idea of traipsing through the pouring rain really unpleasant. So I didn't. I stayed in and read all day. Only went out in the evening to get some food supplies. Which failed because it turned out it was Sunday and the grocery store was closed. But I found a bakery so I didn't starve.
The next day I began the trip to Greece. I may have mentioned the difficulty of getting from Sicily to Greece. It was somewhat complicated. I ended up spending 4 hours on one train the first day to get to some nowhere place called Lamezia Terme and then 8 hours on 3 trains the next day to get to Bari where I got on a ferry for a 16 hour trip to Patras. After which I was somewhat exhausted but just kept going and took 2 buses from there to get to Olympia.
I booked 2 nights in Olympia even though the only thing there is the historical site because I knew I might not get there until somewhat late and that after the trip from Italy it would be nice to have a day without any public transport. But there is a whole lot of nothing in Olympia. Especially at this time of year. Many of the shops close at random times just because there aren't enough people to bother staying open for. I got there in the evening and after a bit of a look round the town I settled in. Despite the fact that Greece is an hour ahead so I should be staying up later and sleeping in longer after the travelling and the not great night's sleep on the ferry it felt like bed time at about 7pm.
The next morning I got up fairly early to get to the archaeological site just after it opened and beat the tour groups. It was really good. I was almost completely alone for half of it and only a few small groups for most of it. About an hour after I got there all the big tour groups showed up. I spent about half the day at the ruins and the museum which left me half a day of wandering around a town that could be completely encircled on foot in under 20 minutes. So not a lot to report about that afternoon. I found a proper supermarket which was good because the place I'd been directed to the night before had a fruit and vege section consisting of lemons, cabbage and 3 kinds of onion. Not the most inspiring selection when you don't have a kitchen.
I also took the time to ask at the tourist office about the easiest way to get to Nafplio since there's nothing direct and I'd found conflicting things online. They told me to wait at that bus stop for the bus to Tripoli and showed me the list of times. On their list there was nothing between 7.35 and 11.10 but the timetable on the internet had said the first bus was 8.30. And that the last bus from tripoli to Nafplio was at 2 so I really had to take the earliest bus. So I got up and headed to the bus stop early enough for the 7.35 but prepared to wait for the 8.30. But neither ever came. So eventually I got on a bus to Pyrgos where there is an actual bus station with people to ask if something goes wrong. Then I got the bus to Corinth and from there to Nafplio. I still don't know where the Tripoli bus ended up. But I got to Nafplio early enough to have plenty of time to get lost on the way to the hotel. Got a nice tour of the town in my attempts to find a place to sleep.
The next day I headed out to Mycenae. Had a few more problems with the greek bus system and ended up walking the last 4 km to the site but it was a nice day for a walk and it cleared the frustration from the bus. Mycenae was pretty impressive. I've seen a lot of old stuff during this trip but I won't be forgetting Mycenae any time soon.
Then another bus (no dramas this time) back to Nafplio, a bit of window shopping because everything was closed and back to the hotel. The place is run by a lovely old couple who keep offering me tea when I get back but I'm not really a tea person and I'm starting to feel rude turning them down.
And that brings us all the way up to yesterday! That's practically caught up.
Yesterday was for Nafplio itself. I wandered the old town, climbed the way too many steps to the fortress, walked around the little peninsula thing, sat by the water, picked a restaurant in the main square and had ice cream and looked through some of the little shops. Nice and simple.
Today I headed out to Epidavros. Big theatre and the ruins of the sanctuary of Asklepios (greek god of healing). But the bus back only left at 1 pm or 4 pm so I had to either do it all in 2 hours or stick around for 5. So I skimmed through parts of it because there is nothing else out there. And now I'm on the bus back and have no plans for this afternoon beyond lunch. But if I pick a place with wifi you might even get to read this a whole day before I promised.
Is that enough of an update for you?
Syracuse was really lovely. I wandered the old town of Ortygia with it's windy alleys and ocean views. Visited their archaeological park with the greek theatre where Aeschylus premiered a bunch of his plays and a man made cavern thing that some tyrant built to have perfect acoustics so he could eavesdrop on the prisoners he put inside. I also found what I think was the tomb of Archimedes. It's the only thing in the area of the map that the tomb of archimedes was marked on but you'd think something like that would have a sign. It's Archimedes. He was a genius and you learn about him and his bath in primary school. Surely that would be worth a sign or 2. So maybe it wasn't really the tomb of Archimedes but I'm going to claim that it was until someone proves me wrong. I also paid a visit to the local archaeological museum which was a pretty decent one. So that was my day in Syracuse. And it wasn't even raining so it was perfect.
My last full day in Sicily I intended to go to Taormina (a pretty hilltop town) but it was completely pouring down that day and I wasn't feeling a hundred percent. Not a lot less than a hundred percent, just enough to make the idea of traipsing through the pouring rain really unpleasant. So I didn't. I stayed in and read all day. Only went out in the evening to get some food supplies. Which failed because it turned out it was Sunday and the grocery store was closed. But I found a bakery so I didn't starve.
The next day I began the trip to Greece. I may have mentioned the difficulty of getting from Sicily to Greece. It was somewhat complicated. I ended up spending 4 hours on one train the first day to get to some nowhere place called Lamezia Terme and then 8 hours on 3 trains the next day to get to Bari where I got on a ferry for a 16 hour trip to Patras. After which I was somewhat exhausted but just kept going and took 2 buses from there to get to Olympia.
I booked 2 nights in Olympia even though the only thing there is the historical site because I knew I might not get there until somewhat late and that after the trip from Italy it would be nice to have a day without any public transport. But there is a whole lot of nothing in Olympia. Especially at this time of year. Many of the shops close at random times just because there aren't enough people to bother staying open for. I got there in the evening and after a bit of a look round the town I settled in. Despite the fact that Greece is an hour ahead so I should be staying up later and sleeping in longer after the travelling and the not great night's sleep on the ferry it felt like bed time at about 7pm.
The next morning I got up fairly early to get to the archaeological site just after it opened and beat the tour groups. It was really good. I was almost completely alone for half of it and only a few small groups for most of it. About an hour after I got there all the big tour groups showed up. I spent about half the day at the ruins and the museum which left me half a day of wandering around a town that could be completely encircled on foot in under 20 minutes. So not a lot to report about that afternoon. I found a proper supermarket which was good because the place I'd been directed to the night before had a fruit and vege section consisting of lemons, cabbage and 3 kinds of onion. Not the most inspiring selection when you don't have a kitchen.
I also took the time to ask at the tourist office about the easiest way to get to Nafplio since there's nothing direct and I'd found conflicting things online. They told me to wait at that bus stop for the bus to Tripoli and showed me the list of times. On their list there was nothing between 7.35 and 11.10 but the timetable on the internet had said the first bus was 8.30. And that the last bus from tripoli to Nafplio was at 2 so I really had to take the earliest bus. So I got up and headed to the bus stop early enough for the 7.35 but prepared to wait for the 8.30. But neither ever came. So eventually I got on a bus to Pyrgos where there is an actual bus station with people to ask if something goes wrong. Then I got the bus to Corinth and from there to Nafplio. I still don't know where the Tripoli bus ended up. But I got to Nafplio early enough to have plenty of time to get lost on the way to the hotel. Got a nice tour of the town in my attempts to find a place to sleep.
The next day I headed out to Mycenae. Had a few more problems with the greek bus system and ended up walking the last 4 km to the site but it was a nice day for a walk and it cleared the frustration from the bus. Mycenae was pretty impressive. I've seen a lot of old stuff during this trip but I won't be forgetting Mycenae any time soon.
Then another bus (no dramas this time) back to Nafplio, a bit of window shopping because everything was closed and back to the hotel. The place is run by a lovely old couple who keep offering me tea when I get back but I'm not really a tea person and I'm starting to feel rude turning them down.
And that brings us all the way up to yesterday! That's practically caught up.
Yesterday was for Nafplio itself. I wandered the old town, climbed the way too many steps to the fortress, walked around the little peninsula thing, sat by the water, picked a restaurant in the main square and had ice cream and looked through some of the little shops. Nice and simple.
Today I headed out to Epidavros. Big theatre and the ruins of the sanctuary of Asklepios (greek god of healing). But the bus back only left at 1 pm or 4 pm so I had to either do it all in 2 hours or stick around for 5. So I skimmed through parts of it because there is nothing else out there. And now I'm on the bus back and have no plans for this afternoon beyond lunch. But if I pick a place with wifi you might even get to read this a whole day before I promised.
Is that enough of an update for you?
That's good for me, love, but I am not so sure about _some_ people. ;-) :-D
ReplyDeleteI am not surprised by the "too many steps" at the fortress. I suspect most fortresses have too many steps - cuts down on the unwanted "visitors".
Glad to hear you are adapting to the Greek bus "system". Love hearing any and all stories you have.
Lots of love and hugs
Dad
That'll do, Peg, that'll do. (SWIDT?)
ReplyDeleteI think I stayed at the same hostel... Good to know they're still alive! Nafplio is also the source of the advice "Don't trust timetables, always check with the bus station." so don't expect getting out to be any easier than getting in!
Ha ha! I _did_ SWYDT. ;)
ReplyDeleteI had a good chuckle, I did.
Lots of love to both of you.
Dad
Hi Peggy , you sure are having a super look around at all the ancient sites. Your adventures by bus and train plus the walking will make you supoer adaptable to any situation. Cheers Elinor
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